Pre-Lover Luxury Store Front

 

Recently, I found myself in Copenhagen’s airport. For those who have not been, it is a beautiful airport – modern, well designed, and full of sleek luxury retail stores. But something caught my eye: a shop called Pre-Loved Luxury among the duty-free shops typically reserved for full-price designer goods. This wasn’t the jumbled disorder you might expect from a vintage store; it was a curated space selling pristine secondhand handbags and leather goods.

As someone who actively seeks out vintage and secondhand treasures (Copenhagen’s vintage scene is unrivaled!)I couldn’t help but feel excited at seeing such a store in an unexpected location like an airport. To me, this was another clear signal that the Recommerce revolution is gaining serious traction and shows that mainstream companies are embracing Recommerce as a way to go beyond the obvious sustainability opportunities, to drive relevance and redefine what being a category leader means. In turn, increasing brand equity.

Recommerce Is No Longer Fringe

The resale market is booming, and it’s not just about affordability anymore—it’s about sustainability, individuality, rarity and cultural relevance. McKinsey estimates that the resale sector will grow by 10–15% annually over the next decade, with the global secondhand apparel market projected to reach $350 billion by 2028. The younger generations are driving this shift as they seek alternatives to fast fashion and demand greater accountability from brands on issues like greenwashing and profit distribution. The 2024 Bank of America Private Bank Study of Wealthy Americans found that 65% of respondents were interested in collectibles — but that number jumped to 94% for those under 44. Millennials and Gen Z-ers are at least twice as likely as older generations to collect watches, alcohol, rare cars, sneakers, and antiques.

Luxury brands are particularly well-positioned to capitalise on this trend. For consumers who value craftsmanship and rarity, resale offers an alternative way to own high-quality products with added layers of meaning—whether it’s the story behind a vintage piece, the environmental impact of choosing secondhand over new or the potential to own something that reflects your unique personality and style. Just check out Vinterior’s latest ad. Resale items, in some cases, can even gain value rather than depreciating.

The Path To Resale For Brands

A genuine Resale strategy offers brands the opportunity to do more than just sustainability. There are multiple strategic levers and opportunities, both practical and creative initiatives. For instance, new business models, creative activations, elevated storytelling, loyalty and building relationships. However, delivering recommerce presents both an opportunity and a challenge for brands. Right now, in terms of retail strategy they typically utilise two distinct ways to offer their products for resale:

  1. Brand-led Resale Initiatives: Brands like Patagonia (“Worn Wear”) and H&M have invested heavily in circular fashion initiatives, creating their own resale channels (physical and digital) to maintain control over quality and customer experience. Freitag has introduced a SWAP system (Shopping Without Any Payment) – an exchange initiative where customers can find a new bag and pass on their own one.
  2. Third-Party Resale Platforms: Platforms like Vinted, Depop, or Vestiaire Collective offer an easy way for consumers to purchase resale items, with brands either passive participants or looking to build strategic partnerships. This approach allows brands a path to resale without building infrastructure themselves. But this does come with risks—such as diminished control over product quality or how the brand is represented to consumers.

But what if there were another way? What if brands came together to co-invest in the “recovery chain” which also included Resale? Imagine a collective of brands pooling resources to create shared infrastructure for resale—streamlining logistics, ensuring quality control, and delivering consistent consumer experiences, but also unlocking the possibility of vibrant collaborations that otherwise would not happen.

In this scenario, there would be different collaboration strategies between brands. One option could be for brands with shared values to come together to offer a cohesive resale experience that amplifies their brand perception. On the other hand, brands with contrasting identities or values could also work together to offer their consumer greater variety and inspiration through a resale initiative.

Reimagining Resale: Where Innovation Meets Sustainability

There are already some exciting initiatives happening that are redefining the resale space:

  • Gucci Vintage: Gucci is not only entering the resale market but also elevating it by customising select vintage pieces. The Gucci Continuum platform, launched through Gucci Vault, upcycles deadstock materials through collaborations with creative partners and allows customers to purchase refurbished and customised vintage Gucci items. This pushes their resale initiatives beyond sustainability to become a driver of rarity, creativity, and storytelling.
  • Uniqlo London: Uniqlo’s flagship store offers on-site customisation services that transform recycled clothing into one-of-a-kind pieces available for purchase—blurring the line between resale and creativity-driven retail. If you want a philosophical diversion, you could ponder the ‘Ship of Theseus’. At what point does altering, replacing, and merging vintage items, does the piece no longer constitute vintage and become a new item in its own right?

Why This Matters

The presence of the Pre-Loved Luxury store in an airport duty-free zone isn’t just an interesting anecdote – it’s a signal of where Resale is heading. Resale is no longer confined to thrift stores or niche platforms; it’s entering spaces traditionally reserved for retail and luxury experiences.

For luxury and retail brands, this isn’t just an opportunity – it’s an imperative. Consumers are already embracing Resale; now it’s up to brands to decide how they’ll respond. At Sense Worldwide we believe by making Resale a core component of luxury fashion and retail strategy, rather than an afterthought or bolt-on or campaign, companies can unlock fertile opportunities and benefits that will drive relevance, increase brand equity and deliver utility to consumers that builds relationships with them.

Maxine Cunningham

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